Surfing has been a blast so far, I wish I could do it more but its all about location! The photos are day One of surfing in Maui. The weather was actually not that great for our first day of surfing . It was overcast, cool and the surf was down, but...since it was our first crack at it....it was still great!
The Instructor for my lesson of surfing was from Mexico and had been surfing for 20 years. She was excellent, all you had to do was listen to what she said, and it worked. She said teaching had its challenges when you are only with someone for 2 hours and they decide they have it figured out in 20 minutes. I could understand that.
We did really well with our first day of surfing, I am quite confident my years of training with center and balance with kung fu played into my success. Of course, for some who are 8 years old , some things just come naturally(I hate 8 year olds!! :))
Once I was left to my own devices I realized the true challenge of surfing.
Its the Ocean. Its unpredictable. The experience of reading it, knowing when the right wave is coming, knowing the timing to catch a wave, knowing when the wave is more than you can handle or maybe its just a dud.
Its very addictive, always saying to yourself ...OK ..one more wave and then I am going in. Next thing you know, the morning is gone and your arms are tired of paddling.
Talking to some of the locals, you realize its a hobby to some, its a lifestyle to others and you see how its yet a religion to the dedicated.
It reminds me of the marital arts.
Very cool.

3 comments:
Very cool indeed!
FUN!!!
I was hoping you'd post pictures. How to Hang 10!
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